How It Works

The garden committee sets the goals and objectives of the garden, and manages its  operation.  Community gardens are “collectives”, that is, a self-directed citizen group formed for the benefit of its members and the immediate community or neighbourhood.  The committee also manages the finances, makes any required purchases, disciplines members when necessary, and looks after all publicity, donations and other outside interactions.

The rules are set by the committee, and regulate aspects such as:

• Minimum and maximum plot areas per person
• Fees
• Minimum expectations of members (typically, members must tend their own plots weekly, and contribute a certain number of hours to communal plots and overall upkeep)
• Gardening methods to be used

Ultimately, the garden collective may consider formally incorporating as a non-profit society, which has certain advantages once a formal, self-sustaining organisation has been established.

The methods

Gardening styles vary widely depending on the local climate and the skills, knowledge and abilities of the gardener(s).  In this case, the following concepts will be a good starting point:

• Feed the Soil!  The “soil food web” is an evolving concept of soil as a living community of life packed with microorganisms that are fed by the plants growing in the soil, and that in turn support the growth of plants by making nutrients available.  The healthier the soil ecosystem, the better plants grow, and the more nutritious your veggies will be!  See http://www.soilfoodweb.ca/concepts/ for the basics.
• No chemicals!   Herbicides, pesticides and synthetic fertilisers are short-term “fixes” that harm the soil life, cause long-term declines in productivity and can result in toxic residues in our food.  Using new methods that actually work with nature to feed the living soil, we can minimise weeds, pests and plant diseases and eliminate the need for such artificial interventions
• No till!  (Or at least very little).  New understandings of soil have led to realisations that tillage, especially using rototillers and similar  implements, causes great harm to the trillions of important microorganisms that live in every handful of soil.  Better, less harmful and less strenuous methods exist!
• Permanent beds and permanent paths.  Keeping foot traffic on the paths reduces compaction, and makes gardening much less physically demanding in the long run.  Soils in the permanent beds are fed and tended, and will yearly gain in fertility and productivity.  Each gardener can be assigned the same bed year after year, and so will learn from experience as they care for their soil.  Permanent beds also make it easier to manage pest control and special techniques like solarization.
• Use local inputs.  Materials that would otherwise go to waste are great for feeding the soil:
• Fallen leaves from neighbourhood trees can be collected, composted and applied as mulch to the garden beds the next year, providing an excellent source of organic matter and micronutrients
• Wood chips for paths help control and absorb heavy rains, and in time become rotted enough to add to the soil.  In the right conditions, edible mushrooms can be grown in the wood chip pathways
• Manure, straw and hay from local farms, when available (and chemical-free), are further possible “food for the soil”
• Kitchen scraps are welcome additions to the compost pile
• Occasional purchased amendments, such as alfalfa pellets, bone meal ands other organic fertilisers, may be quite helpful especially in the first couple of years while the new soil is coming to life
• Compost!  Organic materials piled up this year will decompose into humus, which is a perfect addition to next year’s garden beds, and a suitable medium to plant seeds and transplants into.

Funding

• Annual garden fees should cover most ongoing costs, once the garden is established
• Start-up funds to cover the costs of initial setup and construction of the garden will be needed.  Local sponsorship and other contributions will be much-looked-for.  

Land

A community garden needs a sizable parcel of land, where numerous beds can be set up, and where permanent plantings of fruit trees and shrubs can be established.  The land should be uncontaminated by previous industrial uses, and should not be at risk of conversion into some other development years down the road.

(A suitable parcel of land exists, located in the centre of a residential block on the west side of Meadow Lake.  This site has space for many gardeners, and a proposed layout could include:

• Up to 18 beds, 4 feet wide and 90 feet long, with 2-foot pathways between, which can each be divided among one, two or three gardeners
• Perimeter plantings of hardy fruit trees, fruiting shrubs, and perennials such as raspberries and asparagus
• A central area for compost, a small tool shed, and benches and a fire pit for celebrations
• Water may potentially be sourced by agreement with an adjacent landowner
• See rough draft: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ApHArUTNdaoQDSb1vIaC1YgU41-PkiBgaapORasbL8g/edit?usp=sharing)

Upon completion of the “first steps” (see below), a proposal can be presented to the City for approval for the use of the selected site on a permanent basis. 

Following that, we roll up our sleeves!

Next article: First Steps

First Steps

Before any soil is turned or any seed planted, we first need to get organised.  The place to begin is with the people who will be involved!

• Poll the neighbourhood to find out who wishes to be involved.  Start with residents within an easy walking radius of the proposed garden site (4 blocks).  Gather names, contacts, abilities and level of interest.  Interested people from outside that area are also welcome, of course.
• Speak directly with residents whose homes are right next to the proposed garden site.  Find out if there are any concerns about the proposal, and how these might be suitably addressed.  Some neighbours may be keenly interested in being part of the garden collective, and one or two may be open to a water sharing arrangement.
• Invite the “most interested” respondents to form the committee that will put together the plan, present it to the City, and then begin building the garden

Realistically, starting a new community garden takes a lot of planning, collaboration and work. A year's worth of preparatory steps are needed before the first plots are sown.  Want to help?  Complete this form to express your interest and ability.

Resources: Edmonton Community-Led Projects

Next article: Landowner Approval

Landowner Approval

City land

The plot selected may be is city-owned property, which has a number of advantages.  To gain approval for the use of this land, a comprehensive plan must be presented which addresses the following concerns:

1. Community support: how many people are involved, and what is their level of commitment?
2. Neighbourhood concerns: Is there support or resistance from people living in the immediate area?
3. Operational Plan: How will the garden be managed and run, and by whom?  How will the committee be organised?
4. Sustainability:  How will the garden’s membership and funding be maintained, so that the project does not fizzle out after some years?
5. What ongoing support is needed from the City?
6. Termination plan:  In the (hopefully unlikely) event that the garden project does come to an end, what will be required to return it to a state that is easily managed by the city?

Private land

Privately owned lots within the city may also be available and suitable for use.  An agreement similar to the one outlined above would be necessary.

Next article: Year One

Year Two

1. Obtain soil tests
2. If spring is late or cold, solarize the beds with clear plastic to warm them up
3. Purchase good quality commercial compost (this should be the only time this is necessary) and spread in a layer across the beds
4. Add other (organic) amendments if necessary
5. Plant, as per individual gardener preferences.  New gardeners should stick to easy-to-grow plants
6. Use minimal-till methods, such as growing potatoes under straw
7. Apply mulch (compost, straw, etc) between plants to protect exposed soil, conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds
8. Plant trees, shrubs and perennials as they become available.  Keep these beds heavily mulched
9. Control weeds by hand
10. Obtain supplies of wood chips, straw and other materials
11. Harvest root crops gently (minimise soil disturbance)
12. Build a compost pile with available materials
13. Autumn work:
• Mow or flatten leftover vegetable crops (as much as possible, leave plant roots in the soil)
• Apply a layer of straw or hay to the beds
• Collect bagged leaves from around the neighbourhood
14. Celebrate!

Next article:  Ongoing Years

Ongoing Years

With each year, soil quality will noticeably improve, as will productivity of the garden.  Constant careful tending, including the regular addition of rotted leaves, compost and other organic materials, and avoidance of tillage, will result in abundant soil life which in turn will abundantly support the growth of vegetables and flowers!

1. Obtain soil tests occasionally.  
2. If spring is late or cold, solarize the beds with clear plastic to warm them up
3. Rake the beds and add a layer of good quality compost
4. Add other (organic) amendments if necessary (alfalfa pellets are a quick and economical source of nitrogen and other nutrients)
5. Plant, as per individual gardener preferences.  Use minimal-till methods
6. Apply mulch (compost, straw, etc) between plants to protect exposed soil, conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds
7. Plant trees, shrubs and perennials as they become available.  Keep these beds heavily mulched
8. Control weeds by hand.  If part of a bed becomes infested with quack grass or other invasive plants that can’t be controlled easily by hand, use a heavy tarp to occult and smother the weeds starting in early spring.  In mid-summer, sow a fast-growing cover crop, and plant vegetables as normal the following year.  
9. Obtain supplies of wood chips, straw and other materials
10. Harvest root crops gently (minimise soil disturbance)
11. Build a compost pile with available materials
12. Autumn work:
• Mow or flatten leftover vegetable crops (as much as possible, leave plant roots in the soil)
• Apply a layer of rotted leaves to the beds
• Collect bagged leaves from around the neighbourhood
13. Experiment with advanced organic gardening methods
14. Learn from regenerative agriculture experts, and from experts in food preserving, medicinal plants, traditional crafts, and more!
15. Share knowledge with interested people
16. Build a small tool shed, and maybe a (composting) outhouse
17. Celebrate!  (Be sure to include the neighbours!)

 

Year One

No great bounty should be expected the first year.  This is the year for establishing the committee, gaining approval for use of the land, and building the garden from scratch.  Some short-season vegetables may result in year one; the following years are when production really starts to happen!

Initial Tasks:

1. Identify property boundaries, any buried services,  easements, etc
2. Conduct soil testing
3. Gather materials:
• Stakes
• Stringlines
• Cardboard (lots!)
• Municipal compost
• Wood chips
• Rotted farm manure
• Herbicide-free straw or hay
• Cover crop seeds
• Watering equipment (depending on source)
• Tarps
4. Handy equipment, to rent or borrow:
• Tractor or skidsteer with bucket and tiller (possibly  a post-hole auger, if needed)
• Measuring tapes (100’)
• Soil probe
• Wheelbarrows
• Spades
• Rakes
5. Mow the grass as low as possible
6. Lay out the beds and paths.  Mark all corners with sturdy stakes
7. If existing soil is compacted, or is heavy clay:
• Improve water infiltration by punching numerous shallow (12-18”) holes in the paths and filing with wood chips
• Lightly till the soil in the beds
8. Lay wet cardboard across the garden, beds and paths alike (This will smother the grasses and perennial weeds while the garden soil develops)
9. Add 4 inches of wood chips to the paths
10. Add a layer of straw or hay to the beds, and cover with a mixture of manure and compost, at least 6 inches deep
11. Wet the beds thoroughly, and cover with tarps for at least a week
12. Sow the beds with a fast-growing annual cover crop such as forage radishes or buckwheat (The purpose of this is to cover the soil,and feed the sold organisms as they begin to develop)
13. Various vegetables can be transplanted into the new beds at the same time.  Some will thrive more than others in the first year
14. Build a compost pile with available materials
15. Autumn work:
• Mow or flatten the cover crops and leftover vegetable crops
• Apply a layer of straw or hay to the beds
• Collect bagged leaves from around the neighbourhood.  (Add water to the bags, and pile them up in a handy spot)
16. Celebrate!

Next article: Year Two

The Concept

Community gardens are plots of land where community volunteers come together to produce food, flowers, native and ornamental plants, edible berries and food perennials on public or private lands. The gardeners’ collective takes initiative and responsibility for organising, maintaining, and managing the garden area. This participation builds skills and creates positive community development that is widely accessible to a diverse range of people.